We supply herringbone and chevron parquet alongside traditional wood blocks, in solid wood and engineered construction. Colours include natural and white oiled oak, grey tones and darker browns, with brushed, oiled, lacquered and unfinished surfaces. Block sizes vary a lot, so check the dimensions against your intended layout. Filter the range below by pattern, construction, colour or brand, and order free samples to see the colour at home.
Explore different types of parquet flooring
Parquet comes in three main layouts here, and each suits different rooms and fitting methods.
Herringbone parquet flooring
Herringbone uses rectangular blocks laid in a staggered zigzag, with each block meeting the next at a right angle. It works in period properties and in plainer modern rooms, and it's the layout most customers start with. Our herringbone parquet covers solid and engineered oak, with engineered blocks in thicknesses from slim 10mm formats up to 20mm. Tones include natural, white oiled and golden brushed, and finishes range from brushed and UV oiled to invisible lacquer.
Chevron parquet flooring
Chevron blocks have angled ends, so they meet to form continuous V-shaped lines running across the room. The look is cleaner and more directional than herringbone, which suits contemporary interiors and rooms where you want to lead the eye along the length. Because the ends are cut at an angle, herringbone blocks can't be laid as chevron. Browse our chevron parquet to see the formats available, including engineered oak chevron in rustic grade with an invisible matt lacquer finish.
Solid wood parquet blocks
Traditional blocks are individual pieces of solid wood, most often oak, in thicknesses such as 18mm and 22mm. Unfinished blocks suit fitters who want to sand and finish on site, while prefinished blocks arrive brushed and matt lacquered. Whether a block can be laid as herringbone or another design depends on its length, width and edge profile, so check the product details before planning the pattern. Start with our solid parquet blocks, or go straight to unfinished oak parquet.
Solid vs engineered parquet flooring
Solid parquet is cut from a single piece of wood. Engineered parquet has a real wood top layer bonded to a layered core. Both are real wood, and the right choice depends on your subfloor, your heating and how you plan to finish the floor.
| | Solid parquet | Engineered parquet |
|---|
| Construction and look | Wood throughout each block | Real wood top layer on a layered core |
| Stability | Reacts more to changes in humidity and temperature | Generally more dimensionally stable, depending on the product |
| Sanding and refinishing | Can be sanded; how often depends on thickness and condition | Depends on the wear layer, so check the specification |
| Underfloor heating | Check approval for the exact product | Many ranges are approved for compatible systems, but not all |
| Subfloor and fitting | Usually glued to a prepared, dry, level subfloor | Usually glued; some ranges click together |
| Thickness | Typically thicker blocks | Varies, with the wear layer being the figure to check |
| Price | Varies by species, grade, size and finish | Varies by species, grade, wear layer and finish |
Engineered parquet may offer better stability, but suitability still depends on the individual product and the conditions it's fitted in. Solid parquet can be refinished, though not an unlimited number of times. For more background, see our guides to engineered wood flooring and solid wood flooring, or browse engineered parquet blocks directly.
Choosing the right parquet pattern
Pattern changes how the room looks and how much cutting and material the job takes.
| Pattern | Look | Installation | Material |
|---|
| Herringbone | Staggered zigzag, traditional or contemporary depending on tone and block size | Needs an accurate start line, with plenty of cutting at the edges | Cutting allowance is usually higher than for straight plank |
| Chevron | Continuous V lines with a clear direction | Angled ends must meet precisely, so alignment is less forgiving | Angled cuts at walls produce more offcuts |
| Traditional blocks | Depends on the design, where block dimensions allow | Varies with the layout and block size | Varies with the layout |
Many customers frame a herringbone or chevron field with a border of straight blocks, which also helps the pattern meet the walls cleanly. A border changes how many blocks you need, so plan it before you order. Check each product's length, width and intended laying pattern first, and ask us if the listing doesn't make the pattern clear.
Oak parquet flooring: colours and finishes
Oak is the most common choice for parquet because it takes oils, lacquers and stains well and comes in a wide range of grades and tones. Other species in the range include ash, beech, walnut, maple and merbau, but oak gives the most choice.
Colours run through natural and golden oak, white oiled and whitewashed finishes, grey tones, and darker browns such as antique brown and whiskey oak. Surface treatments include:
- Brushed, which opens up the grain for a more textured look
- Oiled and UV oiled, which give a natural, matt appearance
- Matt and invisible lacquer, which form a protective layer on the surface
- Unfinished, for sanding and finishing after laying
Unfinished blocks let you choose the colour and sheen and give a flat surface across the joints, but they add sanding, finishing and curing time on site. Factory-finished parquet is ready to use once it's laid and cleaned. If you're finishing on site, our hardwax oils and floor lacquers include products from Bona, Junckers, Osmo and Woca.
What to consider before buying parquet flooring
- Solid or engineered. Think about underfloor heating, changing humidity and whether the subfloor is concrete.
- Pattern. Herringbone, chevron or another layout your blocks are designed for.
- Dimensions and thickness. These affect the look, the pattern and the finished floor height at doors, where thresholds and edgings make the transition.
- Finished or unfinished. Decide whether you want to sand and finish on site.
- Subfloor. It needs to be sound, level, clean and dry, whether it's timber, screed or concrete.
- Installation method. Most parquet is glued down, and some engineered ranges click together.
- Underfloor heating. Confirm approval for the exact product and your heating system.
- Room size and quantity. Measure the total area, then work from whole packs.
- Cutting allowance. This depends on the pattern and layout, so there's no single figure.
- Accessories. Adhesive, primer, damp proofing, trims and tools all need to match the floor.
Herringbone and chevron generally need a larger cutting allowance than straight plank because of the angled and perimeter cuts, and room shape, doorways, alcoves and border design all change the number. Give us your measurements and layout if you want a view on quantity, and order everything in one go so the tones match across the room. Free samples help you check colour and grain before you commit.
Parquet flooring and underfloor heating
Certain engineered parquet products are suitable for compatible underfloor heating systems, and others aren't. Before ordering, check:
- Manufacturer approval for the exact product and heating type
- Flooring construction and thickness
- The maximum permitted floor surface temperature
- Subfloor preparation and any underlay requirements
- The installation method the manufacturer specifies
- Moisture conditions and the heating commissioning schedule
If a product's specification doesn't mention underfloor heating, treat it as unsuitable until the manufacturer confirms otherwise. Solid parquet needs the same checks and isn't approved on the strength of its species alone. Our engineered parquet blocks are the usual starting point, and you can contact our team to check a specific product against your system.
Shop parquet flooring online
Use the filters at the top of this page to narrow the range by pattern, construction, colour and brand, then order up to three free samples to check tone and grain in your own light. We've supplied flooring since 2009, and the parquet range includes established brands such as Tradition, QuickStep, Kahrs and Boen, with adhesives, finishes and tools available in the same order. Larger projects can ask about trade pricing, and delivery and charges are set out in full. You can also call us on 020 8830 9787 or visit the showroom at 158 Coles Green Road, London NW2 7HW.
FAQ
What is parquet flooring?
Parquet is wood flooring made from short blocks, strips or boards laid in a repeating pattern, most commonly herringbone or chevron. It was traditionally made from solid wood blocks, and engineered versions are now widely available.
What is the difference between herringbone and chevron parquet?
Herringbone blocks have square ends and are laid at right angles in a staggered zigzag. Chevron blocks have angled ends that meet to form continuous V-shaped lines. They look similar at a glance, but the blocks aren't interchangeable.
Is solid or engineered parquet flooring better?
Neither is better in every case. Solid parquet suits buyers who want the option to sand and refinish, while engineered parquet is usually the better fit for underfloor heating (where approved), concrete subfloors and rooms with changing humidity.
Can parquet flooring be installed over underfloor heating?
Yes, if the specific product is approved for your type of heating. Check the manufacturer's guidance on maximum surface temperature and on how to bring the heating up before and after fitting.
Is parquet flooring made from real wood?
Solid and engineered parquet are both real wood, and engineered has a real wood top layer on a layered core. Vinyl, SPC and laminate herringbone are wood-effect and aren't real wood. If those suit your project better, see our vinyl herringbone and laminate herringbone.
Can parquet flooring be sanded and refinished?
Solid parquet can be, and how many times depends on its thickness and condition, so it isn't unlimited. For engineered parquet it depends on the wear layer, so check that figure in the product details. Oiled surfaces can often be refreshed with a maintenance oil, while lacquered floors need sanding to renew the finish.
What is the best wood for parquet flooring?
Oak is the usual choice because it takes finishes well and comes in a wide range of tones and grades. Ash, beech, walnut, maple and merbau are also available. The best wood depends on the colour you want and your budget.
Is parquet flooring suitable for kitchens?
It can be, with the right product. Engineered parquet is generally the safer choice because it's more stable than solid wood when humidity changes. Wipe up spills promptly, avoid standing water, and check the manufacturer's room-suitability guidance.
Can parquet flooring be installed over concrete?
Yes, provided the slab is dry, level, sound and clean. Moisture test first, apply a damp-proof membrane or primer where the manufacturer requires one, then bond the floor with an approved adhesive.
Does parquet flooring need to be glued down?
Most parquet is glued to the subfloor, and some engineered ranges click together instead. Follow the installation instructions for the specific product.
How much extra parquet flooring should I order?
There's no single figure, because it depends on the pattern, block size and room layout. Herringbone and chevron usually need more allowance than straight plank because of the cutting. Send us your measurements and we can advise you and keep a few spare blocks for future repairs.
Is unfinished parquet better than prefinished parquet?
It depends on the project. Unfinished parquet lets you choose the colour and sheen and gives a flat surface after sanding, but it adds time and mess on site. Prefinished parquet is ready to use once it's laid and cleaned.